Schizophrenic Dubai

From the tallest building in the world to the most humble areas with its life far from glittering …

Like many people, I was initially attracted to the city’s magnificence but shortly discovered a hidden gem behind the fences, a treasure that I visited and visited again for five years.

Join me and fall in love with #My(other)Dubai

I love Satwa Just in sight of Burj Khalifa lies Satwa, with its melting pot of sub-continental and asian populations. Office workers, nurses, taxi drivers... reside or work in Satwa. The area is lively from the early morning to the late evening, life getting organized around Satwa Road, Al Wasl Road and the maze of back alleys with their line-up of small houses and picturesque shops.

On Friday mornings, workers either wait in the street for a potential day job or enjoy their favorite cricket game.

The Fish Market This was the place to visit to enjoy a full “senses” experience. The smell of the fish, the loud interaction from one stall to the next and the visuals. The market was officially opening to public every morning at 7:30, people coming to buy their fish, as well as meat, fruits and vegetables from the other sections of the market. But the best time to reach the fish market was around 5.30am, when fishermen were trading their daily catch before dawn. The fish market was a relic of ‘old Dubai’ and a place of social interaction.

Habibi, seriously ? Tense bargaining between the fisherman and the tradesman who bids for a very low price. Standard practice in the market, this is part of the game.

Meat Section

End of a Story August 2017. Muhammad Jabeer is the « last man standing » in a deserted fish market. The market has been relocated in a brand new building, giving the old place a ghostly feeling. Muhammad will move soon and sell his delicious fresh dates from a new shop.

The Creek The creek splits Dubai in two, separating Deira from Bur Dubai. This is a crossing point for many people, and a critical place for maritime trade.Thousands of people cross the creek every day, onboarding abras, these small wooden boats operated by the transport authority, sailing to stations along the creek. For 1 dirham, workers, tourists – and photographers – get from one bank to the opposite one in just few minutes.

Breakfast with the crew Traditional breakfast (tea and beans) together with the Iranian crew of the dhow. Two hours later, time to load the last items, they would sail back to Iran.

The light abras share the channel with heavy dhows, these traditional ships transporting and delivering goods across the region. Moored along the creek, dhows load and offload tons of spices and goods transshipped by sailors and dockers.

Cast Off

The souqs Deira and Bur Dubai host a maze of souqs, each of them with its specialty. The most traditional among these small market places are the spice souq, the mattress souq and the textile souq. The gold souq is definitely the most visited and the most touristic one, shining with its piles of jewels on display.

Follow me Not sure which shops they plan to visit, but the leader has a map of the gold souq and everyone pays attention.

Cosmopolitan Dubai Dubai is certainly the most cosmopolitan and tolerant city in the world, with only 10% “nationals” and 90% foreigners. This essay is also a tribute to the Indians, Pakistanis, Iranians, Afghanis and other men with whom we shared a precious moment.